The magic of altitude in Old and New World Malbec
Master of Wine, Cees van Casteren MW, penned a short article reflecting on his experiences with altitude and its fascinating connection to the world of wine. In this piece, he shares his thoughts on the contrasting characteristics of the Old World and New World Malbec, drawing parallels between his personal encounters with rapid elevation changes and the unique terroirs that shape these distinct wines. He uses the Alpasión Malbecs from the Uco Valley in Mendoza as a prime example of how high-altitude vineyards produce a unique and distinct expression of this beloved grape. Read his thoughts below:
Not too long ago, I was back at One World Trade Center after visiting the Twin Towers for the first time in 1992. I remember that you went with ‘intercity’ elevators to every tenth floor and then with a stop elevator to intermediate floors. This time, we took the express elevator that goes from floor 0 nonstop to 102. This is done in 40 seconds, at 21.5 floors per second without you feeling anything. Suddenly you are there, 400 meters higher.
I had the same amazement the first time when I flew from Lima to La Paz; I took off at sea level and landed at an altitude of over 3,500 meters. From the moment the door of the plane opened, my heart raced, and a few hours later a headache followed which lasted for a few days.
Just as humans adapt to different elevations, so do grapevines. Every 100 meters higher means an average of 0.6 degrees cooler. Also, the difference between day and night temperature increases proportionally as the altitude increases. In addition, the sunlight intensity is much greater than at sea level. Essentially, grapes of the same variety at altitude are different from those at sea level.
When comparing the Alpasión Malbecs from the Uco Valley near Mendoza in Argentina with those of Cahors in the south of France, the difference is remarkable. The Argentinian Malbec, thanks to its high-altitude terroir, boasts a more vibrant fruit-forward profile, with softer, velvety tannins and a refreshing acidity, whereas the French Malbec is more structured, with a darker character.
This vibrant contrast is beautifully exemplified in the Alpasión’s Malbecs. Their wines, cultivated at significant elevation, showcase the very best of Argentina’s high-altitude potential. You’ll find the promised bright fruit, the smooth, approachable tannins, and that delightful, crisp acidity that makes them both refreshing and deeply satisfying. Alpasión captures the essence of what makes high-altitude Malbec so compelling, offering a true taste of Argentina’s elevated terroir.
You can find out more about the Alpasión Malbecs, as well as our other wines, here.
